Mar 5, 2014

Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern


Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern


Once the pattern is printed, it needs to be cut in a required size. If your measurements fit perfectly into a single size, you can consider yourself extremely lucky! However, if you have hips and waist measurements in different sizes, than you should alter the pattern before cutting your fabric. The alteration itself isn't a very complicated one.

In my example, the hips will be size 38 and the waist size 34. 
First I'll show you the correction of the back panels.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern

Lay the back waist yoke above the back skirt panels, so that the side seams make a smooth line, and the bottom of the yoke is next to the top of the skirt panel. Fix the panels with an adhesive tape so that they cannot move around.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern

Find a spot on your thighs where you're the widest and mark the spot on the pattern. Draw a smooth curve on the pattern, that connects the marked point with the waist line, ending the point in the size 34.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern

Repeat the process on the back lining panel.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern

The same procedure should be done on the front skirt panels. In this case, the alteration will affect the pocket panel as well, so lay the pocket piece over the front skirt panel, so that the side and top edges of the panels align. Add the front waist yoke panel above the skirt panel and fix them in place.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern

Again, draw a smooth curve that connects the size 38 at hips with the size 34 at the waistline.
Transfer the alteration from the pocket pattern to the pocket lining panel.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern

And finally, repeat the procedure on the front lining panel.. 

Zlata skirt sewalong: #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern

Cut the pattern panels according to the corrections you've just made. 

Zlata Sewalong - the posts

Tomorrow we'll make a pattern alterations for a protruding rear that shifts the skirt up.

Stay tuned!

How to buy the pattern


Stepalica: Zlata skirt pattern
Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop
I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods:

* PayPal via 2checkout (www.2co.com)
* Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover

PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.







When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.

For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com


Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova


Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova


Kada ste odštampali kroj, potrebno je iskrojiti ga u potrebnoj veličini. Ukoliko se savršeno uklapate merama u jednu veličinu, imate sreće! Međutim, ukoliko kao i mnogi imate kukove i struk u različitim veličinama, potrebno je da korigujete kroj pre nego što iskrojite materijal. Ova korekcija nije mnogo komplikovana. 

Primera radi, korekciju ću napraviti na sledeći način: kukovi će biti u veličini 38 a struk u veličini 34.
Prvo ću vam korekciju pokazati na zadnjem panelu.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova

Postavite zadnji deo pojasa iznad zadnjeg dela suknje, tako da se bočne ivice poklapaju, a donja ivica pojasa dodiruje gornju ivicu suknje. Kako se delovi ne bi pomerali, ja sam ih fiksirala komadićem selotejpa. 

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova

Odredite tačku na bedrima gde ste najširi i nađite tu tačku na kroju. Glatkom krivom linijom spojte tačku na bedrima sa pojasem, završavajući liniju u veličini 34.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova

Ponovite postupak na zadnjem panelu postave.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova

Isti postupak potrebno je ponoviti i na prednjim panelima kroja. U ovom slučaju, korekcija će obuhvatati i krojni deo džepa, pa postavite džep preko panela suknje, tako da se bočne i gornje ivice krojnih delova poklapaju. Iznad njih dodajte panel pojasa i fiksirajte delove kako se ne bi pomerali.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova

Iscrtajte glatku krivu liniju koja spaja veličinu 38 na bedrima sa veličinom 34 na struku.
Korekciju sa panela džepa prenesite na panel postave džepa.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova

I naravno, ponovite postupak na prednjem panelu postave. 

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #3 korekcija kroja za različite veličine struka i kukova

Iskrojte krojne delove prateći linije korekcije. 

Šivenje Zlata suknje - članci

Sutra ću vam pokazati kako da korigujete kroj ukoliko imate isturenu zadnjicu koja podiže suknju na zadnjem delu.

Pratite dalje članke!

Kupovina kroja


Zlata kroj za suknju košta $11.98, ali kupci iz Srbije ovaj šnit mogu kupiti za upola manje novca, tj. za 500 RSD.

Kroj se može kupiti u dolarskoj valuti preko moje onlajn prodavnice na Etsy sajtu, ili uplatom novca u dinarskoj valuti na moj žiro račun.

Napominjem da dinarske cene ne važe ukoliko kupujete preko Etsy prodavnice.

Za sve dodatne informacije o kupovini, molim vas šaljite mi email na adresu: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.


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