Jan 5, 2011

"S" kaput, deo 1 / The "S" coat, part 1

Maslinaste pantalone su gotove. Treba da ih uslikam, pa ću postaviti.

Magda me pitala da prevedem na engleski značenje reči "Štepalica".

The Olive pants are done. I'll post the pictures of them as soon as I take them.

Magda asked me to translate to English the name of the blog. "Štep" means "Stitch" in Serbian, and "Štepalica" could be translated as "The girl who stitches".

============================================================================

Trenutno sam opsednuta kaputom specifičnog kroja - sa šavovima u obliku slova "S". Ideja za kaput mi je pala na pamet pre nekoliko meseci, kada sam kupila materijal boje limete. Pomislila sam kako se limeta odlično slaže sa tamno zelenom, pa sam htela da napravim kaput koji bi kombinovao te dve boje. Zamisao je da neobičan kroj kaputa dodatno naglasim keder trakom u tamno zelenoj boji, koja bi lepo oivičila šavove. 

I'm currently obsessed with a coat that has a specific pattern - "S" shaped seams. The idea of a coat came to me few months ago when I purchased a fabric in limeta color. I thought that limeta matched well with deep green, so I wanted to make a coat that would combine these two colors. The idea is to accentuate an unusual pattern with deep green piping.


Kao osnov za kroj koristim šnit iz Burda časopisa 10/2005, model 116. 

I'm using a pattern from BWOF 10/2005, #116.


Isti kroj sam koristila za Šanel kapitić koji sam šila pretprošle godine. Tada sam prilično izmenila originalni šnit, prepravivši ga u princes kroj, a sada je taj izmenjeni kroj odlična osnova za "S" kaput.

Dakle, počinjem sa krojem sa princes šavovima koji idu ka ramenima. Krojni delovi nemaju dodatke za šavove, i na svakom od delova označena je linija tkanja. 

I used the same pattern when I sewed my Faux Chanel coat two years ago. I altered the original pattern then, making it shoulder princess seamed, and now that altered pattern is an ideal basis for the "S" coat.

So, I'm starting with the shoulder princess seamed pattern. The pattern pieces do not have seam allowances and each of the panels has the straight grain line drawn on it.


U narednim postovima pisaću o tome kako sam princes kroj izmenila da bih dobila kroj za "S" kaput.

I'll show you in the following posts how I altered the pattern to get the one for the "S" coat.